We hit the road by 9 a.m. on a dreary, rainy day—perfect weather for a drive. It should take us about four and a half hours to get there. We like to switch up our routes to keep things fresh, always discovering something new along the way. As we get closer, familiar town names start popping up, sparking excitement. It’s funny how you can live somewhere for three years, come back 34 years later, and feel like you’ve never been there before.
We set out to find our old haunts. The once-vibrant square now sits quiet—the businesses are gone, and nothing has taken their place. It feels a little sad. We drive by our old house, which has seen better days. So much has changed.
But that’s okay. It’s still a stunning area, and we enjoy being back. We stumble upon a wonderful pasticceria, where we sip cappuccinos and savor pastries. Not a single American in sight. Oh, that’s right—back then, we were just dumb kids who mostly hung out with other Americans and shopped on base. Oh, the things I would tell my younger self! I’m sure we all have some sage advice we’d love to pass along.
Italian ducks for Hannah
Their loss. The coffee and pastries are fantastic.
We drive to Pordenone, find the hospital where Hannah was born, and send her a video. We used to think Pordenone was mayhem, but after Bari, Rome, and Naples, it now feels downright sleepy.
Next, we head to Barcis, one of our favorites. As my friend Larry—who worked with me at Aviano— described it, it’s a “serpentine, cliff-hugging trip.” We’re surprised to find the road has been redone; now, most of the drive winds through tunnels rather than clinging to the mountainside. Still, whenever we catch a glimpse of the view, it’s breathtaking.
You and the boys could sled all day and never get tired!
From Barcis, we continue on to Longarone and then back to Aviano. We’re staying in Vittorio Veneto when Sophie arrives, so we swing by to check out the place. It’s still early enough to make changes if needed. The town is bigger than we remember, nestled right at the base of the Dolomites. I have no doubt we’ll find plenty to do and enjoy our time there.
Be sure to carry enough cash on you for gas! (this one did not)
With time to spare, we drive up to Piancovallo. The route from Aviano to the ski area is a short but stunning mountain ascent—just 10 miles, but with an elevation gain of nearly 3,900 feet. Along the way, the views of the Friulian plains stretching toward the Adriatic Sea are breathtaking.
We have put over 4000 on it and we still have one more month! And boy, it needs a wash!
Our two days here fly by. On our way out, we stop by the Maniago market before heading toward the Cortina area—home of the next Winter Olympics.
paleremo presto
Awesome summary. When I first arrived in Aviano (September ’86), I felt like I (we) were in the “Twilight Zone”. We stayed our first few days at the Alpino Hotel (now closed) before we moved to Lydia’s Pensione (she’s dead) right behind (what was) the Area One fence, overlooking the old used car lot/Commissary/Elementary School…before getting our apartment in San Quirino. Anyhow, it was raining and fog was laying low on the foothills. It looked pretty surreal for two Floridians with a then two-month old newborn (Boo-Boo) a.k.a., LJS III.
On our first evening there we met with our shop chief, MSgt Ronald “Beak” Raizis and his wife Debbie. Boy was quite an intimidating sight at 6’5″ and in his full “John Wayne” element and glory! Slamming pints of Jupiler Lagers, Sambucca’s, and chain-smoking cigarettes, while basically being as loud and arrogant as any American that I had yet seen. Kim was horrified, while I was trying to make sense of what I had signed up to?!! He was a big bully and demeaning, but I forgive him.
Back to the present. If we thought Aviano was a sleepy little village in the late ’80’s, surprisingly it seemed “more so” quiet in 2024! Of course, we couldn’t access the base, but as you indicated, “it was a veritable ghost town”. Any activity that we saw was at San Giorgio’s. The only Americans (in transit) that we encountered were at the Aviano Palace Hotel. What struck me most was how I spent three years of my life (pretty much) within five square miles of the base! I never even went skiing…but did enjoy road biking.
I had to go return. I doubt that I ever will again, but who knows?
But, I agree with you…very little signs of the little bee-hive that it used to be. I was told by Lorenzo, proprietor of Aviano Palace,
(built in 1987) that we lived there during the Bases’ heyday! Mostly due to security, Americans are discouraged from social relationships and interactions with the Italians. So, from his point of view, what once were vibrant relationships are now aloof and detached. Lovely? Nope. I’m ready for a return to the pre-9/11 world.
Enjoy the remainder!
Larry
Haha. Beak. He was larger than life. Always shouting for someone named Copeck! I do feel that we lived there in the heyday and yearn for a pre-9/11 world as well. Thanks for sharing that.
What’s the saying… you can never go home.
Fun to see where Hannah was born