Jim and I headed off to Ancona on a gorgeous, sunny day. The drive was beautiful, but when we arrived at our rental, we gasped—then burst out laughing. Basically, caveat emptor. This place was just not going to work for us. We both had a bad feeling about it, so we decided to find something else. Life is just too short! If I was not fresh off an injury, I’m sure we could have made it work. But, as it is, nope.
I have to say, after staying in so many short-term rentals lately, about 90% are disappointing when you finally arrive.
It was late in the afternoon, and now we had to scramble for new plans. We were supposed to be here for 10 days! Luckily, we found a darling agriturismo for the night. The place had stunning views—but also a shower in the living room/bedroom. Yep, just a big glass box in the middle of the space! Good thing we’ve been married almost 40 years—modesty is a thing of the past.
At check-in, they asked if we’d like to book dinner. Sure! What time?
8:30 pm.
Um. Thanks, but no thanks. Way too late for us! Instead, we headed to our room and enjoyed a relaxed charcuterie dinner much earlier. We spent the evening hashing out plans—10 days until Lake Garda, so what’s next?
The included breakfast the next morning was amazing—a full spread of meats, cheeses, breads, pastries, fresh fruit, and yogurt. And cappuccinos, made just for us.
We decided to head to Assisi for two nights and figure things out from there. It was a short drive, and since we couldn’t check in until 3 p.m., we spent the day wandering. Great decision! The area around Assisi is a stunning mix of rolling hills, medieval villages, and lush countryside. It’s in the heart of Umbria, often called the green heart of Italy. The town itself is perched on the slopes of Mount Subasio, offering breathtaking valley views.
Our rental was just outside of town, with a terrace overlooking the countryside and everything we needed for a couple of nights. Even better? We had the place to ourselves.
Our host, Beatrice, didn’t speak English, but when we invited her in for a beer or a glass of wine, she surprised us by accepting! We had a lovely visit, and she called her daughter to translate. Such a fun evening.
We decided to head up to see the St Francis Basilica in the morning. It is a magnificent two-level church built in the 13th century to honor the beloved patron saint of Italy. Perched on a hillside, it features stunning frescoes, intricate Gothic architecture, and a crypt where St. Francis is buried. The upper basilica is bright and airy, while the lower level has a more solemn, intimate atmosphere. If I walk at a snail’s pace and clutch my clavicle, I’m fine. We spent the morning soaking it all in. It feels nice to stretch our legs. Jim spends the time fending off tour groups that will unknowingly jostle me.
We head down to check out the Santa Maria degli Angeli. It is a grand 16th-century church located at the foot of Assisi, built to enclose the tiny chapel where St. Francis founded the Franciscan Order. This basilica is a significant pilgrimage site, with a vast Baroque interior and an impressive dome. Inside, you’ll find the Chapel of the Transitus, marking the spot where St. Francis passed away in 1226. It is under major renovation and most of the artwork is covered. But the grandeur itself cannot be covered.
We are actually grateful Ancona fell through. This sparkling clean, green, peaceful area is our cup of tea. This, now, is starting to be the Italy we remember.
paleremo presto